Having friends all over the world is a blessing, but meeting up regularly can be a challenge. We decided to make this summer trip leave the group chat and meet up in person in the summer of 2024. Our first stop was in Italy, where we explored the Ligurian coast together.
Travel information
Here are a couple of tips for visiting this region in Italy:
Logistics: Getting around the Cinque Terre and the surrounding region can be done via trains, ferries, and buses. The local train network is very convenient for traveling between the five towns. Be mindful to buy these train tickets in advance, as online purchases are not available within 15 minutes of the train's departure. We had gotten on a train, confident we could buy tickets after boarding, but this proved to be a mistake. We ended up buying the ticket for another time and talked our way out of the situation with the train conductor, which, if you have ever argued with Italians, was a stressful situation. The ferry is a scenic way to travel between the towns and enjoy some spectacular views of the coastline.
Weather: The best time to visit is arguably during spring or autumn, when the sun is out but it is not yet too hot. We visited in August, which is the peak of summer, and it was very hot, humid, and crowded. The hikes were challenging in the heat, and I'm pretty sure we sweated out a few liters of water each day. Of course, this made the refreshing swims at the end of our hikes even more enjoyable. Be sure to bring plenty of water and sunscreen.
Hiking: The Cinque Terre is famous for its hiking trails, which offer stunning views of the coastline and the colorful towns. The most popular trail is the Sentiero Azzurro, which connects all five towns. However, some sections may be closed for maintenance or due to weather conditions, so check the trail status before you go. We also recommend exploring some of the less crowded trails for a more peaceful experience.
Accommodation: We stayed in La Spezia, which is a larger town just south of the Cinque Terre. This was a convenient base for exploring the region, as it has more accommodation options and is well-connected by train. We did not like our stay here very much though, so we would recommend looking into other options as well. If you prefer to stay in one of the Cinque Terre towns, be sure to book well in advance, as they can fill up quickly, especially during peak season. You will also need to be aware of the fact that some towns have limited accessibility, so you will probably have to carry your luggage up and down stairs or steep paths, and over cobblestone roads. We heard some American tourists who booked accommodations inside one of the towns complain about this, so be aware of the challenges that come with staying in these picturesque towns.
The crew
Umnia
Australia's napping queen. The photographer royale. Ensures everyone's well-being with snacks and yaps.
Alexia
Our German with well-trained hiking legs, living her best life in the Mediterranean sun.
Florian
Hiking daddy, carrying around liters of hydration and sunscreen for the group.
What we did
Our trip focused on the Cinque Terre, which is a collection of five picturesque towns along the Italian Riviera, known for their colorful houses and hiking trails. We were based in La Spezia and also explored the beautiful town of Portofino.
What we skipped
The Cinque Terre are, from North to South: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. We skipped Manarola due to time and logistical constraints, but we did visit the other four towns. We also took the train up north to the Portofino peninsula, where we visited Portofino itself, San Fruttuoso, and Camogli. We skipped Santa Margherita Ligure, which is a larger town on the way to Portofino, but we did not have time to explore it.
Field Notes
A short summary of my main takes from this trip:
What I would do differently: I would not visit the Cinque Terre in August, as it is too hot and crowded. I would also consider staying somewhere other than La Spezia, such as the Cinque Terre towns or perhaps Genoa.
Best meal: Dinner at La Camogliese in Camogli. The food was excellent, the service was friendly, and the view overlooking the beach was romantic and beautiful.
Biggest surprise: I did not know about San Fruttuoso before this trip. Visiting this hidden gem by ferry was a highlight of the trip, as it is a beautiful and secluded spot.
La Spezia
As the Cinque Terre are a collection of small towns with limited accommodation and accessibility, we decided to base ourselves in La Spezia, which is a larger town just south of the Cinque Terre towns. La Spezia did not leave a great impression on us, but it was a convenient base for our explorations. We stayed in an Airbnb a little outside of the city center. The town itself struck us as an industrial port town that is a bit run-down in places, but it has a few nice spots along the water and some good restaurants. We did not spend much time in La Spezia itself, as we were eager to explore the Cinque Terre and Portofino.
Food & Drinks Reviews
Blu Bistrot Porto Mirabello
We had our first dinner in La Spezia in this restaurant. It is located on the touristy part of the harbor. We enjoyed our evening out in this neighbourhood and the food in this restaurant was good. I recommend this restaurant for a nice dinner in La Spezia, it is a good place to start your trip in the region. Find it here.Dinner at Blu Bistrot
Ciao Baby
We had lunch here while waiting for our train that would take us from La Spezia to Milan. This turned out to be a hidden gem, as the food was excellent, the service was friendly, and the place had a cool laid-back vibe. It was a nice place to have lunch and recharge before our train ride. Find it here.
Cinque Terre
We dedicated two days to exploring the Cinque Terre. Because of the summer heat, we did not do any of the longer hikes. We did two of the shorter hikes between two adjacent towns, and we also took the train and ferry to explore the other towns.
Day 1 - Corniglia, Vernazza, Riomaggiore
We started our first day by taking the train to Corniglia. Upon exiting the train station, the day started with a steep climb up to the town, which is perched on a cliff overlooking the sea. The views were breathtaking (though perhaps the climb up the stairs was even more breathtaking) and we enjoyed walking along the few narrow streets of the small town. We had lunch here and then hiked to Vernazza.
The hike from Corniglia to Vernazza
Our first hike of our trip was the trail from Corniglia to Vernazza. This trail is part of the Sentiero Azzurro, which connects all five towns of the Cinque Terre. The hike was challenging in the summer heat, but we enjoyed the views we saw during the hike, and the hike was worth it when we arrived in Vernazza. We spent the late afternoon swimming in the little bay in front of the town.
The view upon arriving in Vernazza
Swimming in Vernazza
After our swim, we took the ferry to Riomaggiore, the southernmost town of the Cinque Terre. We explored the town and had dinner here before taking the train back to La Spezia. We enjoyed exploring Riomaggiore as well, which was more manageable as the temperature had cooled down a bit by the time we arrived. We climbed up the hill to the Castello di Riomaggiore, which was a nice way to end our first day in the Cinque Terre.
RiomaggioreDinner in Riomaggiore
Day 2 - Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare
We started our second day by taking the ferry to Vernazza, the northernmost town we had reached the day before. During this ferry ride, we were treated to some views of the towns we had explored the day before.
RiomaggioreCorniglia
We had some lunch here and then hiked to Monterosso al Mare, the northernmost town of the Cinque Terre. Upon leaving Vernazza, we were treated to some of the nicest views of the town we had seen so far.
Entering Vernazza by FerryPeople enjoying the sea
Leaving Vernazza
The hike was again challenging in the summer heat, and once again we were rewarded with a refreshing swim in the sea upon arrival in Monterosso. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Monterosso, the largest of the five towns, and had some dinner here as well before taking the train back to La Spezia. Monterosso felt like the most touristy of the five towns, but it also offered the most diversity in terms of shops and restaurants.
Views and Vibes upon arriving in Monterosso
The Monterosso Riviera The crew at the beach
Food & Drinks Reviews
Riomaggiore - Trattoria Via dell'Amore
We had a delightful dinner at Trattoria Via dell'Amore. We had to queue for some time to get a table, but we had some great cocktails, and the food was excellent. Find it here.
The artThe artist
Corniglia - Bar Pan e Vin
We had lunch at this charming little restaurant in Corniglia. The food was good and the outdoor seating area is very nice, so a good option for a casual meal in Corniglia. Find it here.
Vernazza - Organic Poke
We took out some poke bowls at this place in Vernazza. Hidden in the narrow alleys of Vernazza, it is a good option for a healthy takeout meal. The bowls were just okay and the service was rather slow, but still a good option if you want a healthy takeout snack. Find it here.
Monterosso - Ristorante Ciak
We had dinner at Ristorante Ciak in Monterosso. The food was good, and the service was friendly. The restaurant has a cozy atmosphere and is a good option for a relaxed dinner in Monterosso. It has a little bit of a touristy feel, but it is still a good option for a casual dinner in Monterosso. Find it here.Dinner at Monterosso
Bar il Gabbiano
On our hike from Corniglia to Vernazza, we stopped here for a refreshing drink. The place consists of little more than a counter with two small tables, but it offers a magnificent view of the coastline and Corniglia. We had some overpriced lemonades which were very refreshing in the summer heat. Find it here.
The views of Corniglia
Portofino
We dedicated one day to exploring the Portofino peninsula. We took the train to Santa Margherita Ligure and then took a bus to Portofino. We got off the bus one stop early, at Baia Cannone, for a scenic swim in this cute bay. The bay is overlooked by a beautiful villa, one of the iconic sights of Portofino.
Baia de Cannone
After a short swim, we continued to Portofino, where we explored the town and had lunch. We climbed up the stairs to Castello and Chiesa di San Giorgio, where we were treated to a panoramic view of the town and the bay.
PortofinoChiesa di San Giorgio
We then got on a ferry to San Fruttuoso. This small town is nestled in a cove of a bay and is only accessible by boat or by hiking. San Fruttuoso is home to a beautiful abbey with a small beach in front of it. It is a beautiful little spot to visit.
San Fruttuoso (this picture is not doing it justice)
After our visit to San Fruttuoso, we took the ferry to Camogli, a larger town at the other end of the peninsula. We followed the same procedure as always: Explore the town, have a swim, and have dinner before taking the train back to La Spezia. I feel like I am becoming a broken record, but Camogli was a beautiful and charming town as well.
Camogli
Enjoying the beach of Camogli
Camogli at Night
Food & Drinks Reviews
Portofino - Bar Morena
Located on the main square of Portofino, this restaurant is a bit of an overpriced tourist trap. We had some lunch here, and to be fair the food was nice and the service was okay. It is a good option if you want to take in the view of the harbor while having a meal, but it is not a hidden gem or a local favorite. Find it here.
Camogli - La Camogliese
We had dinner at La Camogliese. With excellent food and a romantic view overlooking the beach, this restaurant was one of my highlights of the trip. I can highly recommend this restaurant for a special dinner in Camogli. Find it here.
